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Sunday, January 29, 2023

Chile - Patagonia - Puerto Natales

 The town of Puerto Natales is nothing special but the boat tour is the reason to visit the area. We stayed at the Remota Patagonis Lodge which is a very modernistic hotel. Bill was able to watch an NFL football game because another guest was streaming it in the lounge. 

We did a day cruise to the Balmaceda and Serrano Glaciers. The senery was spectacular. By boat is the only way to visit this part of Patagonia as it consists of many islands off of mainland Chile.

The following pictures are from our cruise on board and on land.








Our last day of travel with Trafalgar we had to go to Punta Arenas airport for our flight to Santiago Chile. This is were we departed and spent the night near the airport in Santiago befor flighing to Ecuador for our next excursion to Quito and the Galapagos Islanda.

Friday, January 27, 2023

Chile - Patagonia - Torres del Paine National Park

When we were in El Cafalate ten years ago we could not travel across the border into Chile to get to Torres del Paine National Park. Now people can easily drive across the border into Chile. This is a long way around if you were able to go from Glacier National Park to Torres de Paine National Park it would have been a 30 km distance instead of a whole day drive and 279 Km.

Driving to Chile it is a very dry area.

Guanaco

In addition to guanaco, we saw grey foxes and rheas an ostrich-type bird while driving. The sheep farms are numerous in the area as other livestock don't do well. In addition, this area has many gas wells.

Along the way, we stopped at  Lake Esperanza for a short break. 

Lake Esperanza

Mountains between Argentina and Chile in the background

The border crossing on the Argentine side. We had to get off the bus and go into the station to have our passports stamped. Then we got back on the bus and drove to the Chilean border station where we had to take our carry-on bags into the station and have them x-rayed for agricultural products.

At the Chilean border crossing, there was a store and a money exchange. You could exchange your Argentine pesos for Chilean pesos.

We continued on our way to Torres de Pain National Park. At the park office, we had to wait to get approval to enter the park. We waited quite awhile for the approval.

After entering the park we came across a bridge that was used to count livestock. The bridge is only wide enough for the livestock to pass single file. A crazy tourist tried to drive acorss the bridge so it is now closed.


 We finally arrived at Hosteria Las Torres and were greeted by gauchos on horseback waving flags.


Hosteria Las Torres

This was a wonderful all-inclusive accommodation in the heart of Torres del Paine National Park. The meals are well prepared with accommodations for dietary needs. 


The highlight of the area is definitely the scenery. The mountains, glaciers, and blue lakes. You can take a hike or a horseback ride to a remote area.

On the trail


Bill enjoyed his ride down to the lake. It is the scenery that attracts visitors to the park.











The three peaks of the Pain Mountain range is the icon of the park. We had a wounderful two days at this location. Before leaving by bus to Puerto Natales.







Thursday, January 26, 2023

Argentina - Patagonia - El Calafate

We flew from Ushuaia to El Calafate where we were spending a few days before crossing the border into Chile. This is the second time we have been in El Calafate. Things have changed in ten years. There has been a big increase in the number of tourists in the area. The other noticeable difference was the number of stray dogs in the town. We learned that with covid people left the area because there were no jobs. People could not afford to take care of their pets so they were released or left behind. 

 The day we arrived we went for a walk along Lake Argentina. This lake is 90% glacier-fed and has a very distinct milky colour. 


Birds in the area

Bill found a friend

Lake Argentina

Pink Flamingos 

The next day we went to Los Glaciares National Park a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The most accessible glacier in the park is Perito Moreno Glacier. There is a metal walkway across from the glacier that allows visitors to view the glacier that meets Lake Argentina. The glacier is still very impressive but ten years later there are now 100,000 visitors a year.

Perito Moreno Glacier 


The glacier is 100 square Km. which is the size of Buenos Aires. Perito Moreno Glacier is not receding but is maintaining its size. The glacier receives enough snow to compact each year to keep it from receding. Perto Moreno Glacier is my favorite glacier and I was very happy to spend time in this park.



Lake Argentina and Icebergs from Glacier

While in El Calafate we stayed at the Kosten Aike Hotel. Dinner was at a small local restaurant called La Tinachera Wine and Beer where we had an excellent meal. 


The next day we started the long bus ride to cross the border into Chile.

Calafate is a bush berry that looks like a blueberry. The saying is if you eat a calafate berry you will return to El Calafate. 
Calafate Berry


Tuesday, January 24, 2023

Argentina - Patagonia - Ushuaia


After our day in Buenos and Aries, we flew to the southern tip of Argentina to the town of Ushuaia. Ushuaia is the closest town to Antartica and is frequently the starting point for cruises to Antartica.

Bottom of South America Continent  

Ushuaia (oo-SHWY-e) is located in a wide bay on the southern coast of Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego, bound on the north by the Martial mountain range and on the south by the Beagle Channel.

Trafalgar Tour Group

The town has a population of over 80,000. You can book boat trips to see penguins and sea lions. We had a relaxing visit as we stayed out of town at the Los Acebos Hotel. We went for a 31/2 hour hike along the trails behind the hotel.

Mushrooms
View of Glacier along the trail 

Pear Moss Bog

Ushuaia Town and Bay

During the town tour, we went to the Museo Maritimo de Ushuaia which is located in an old jail. Ushuaia was chosen as the location for repeat offenders and serious criminals from Argentina. Inmates spent their time building the town from trees in the forest and the railroad for the town.  The location was considered very hard to escape from as there was no easy access to the rest of South America. The museum provides information on the jail, indigenous people from the area, and the navy base located in Ushuaia. 

We also went to the end of Pan American Highway #3. The highway ends at the Bay of Lapatala in the National Park Fuego.  Fuego means fireland and was named by the Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan because he always saw smoke in the area due to the fires that were always lit by the indigenous people. These people did not wear clothing and therefore always had a fire going either on land or in their canoes.

We stopped for a short visit at Lake Acigami where we saw Guanaco on a hill. Guanaco is a wild camelid native to South America. Similar to an alpaca



We had a wonderful meal at Chez Manu located on the hill behind the hotel.

Chez Manu Dessert

From Ushuaia, we flew over the mountains to El Calafate, Argentina.